Calibra Buyers Guide

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Below is a brief guide on buying second hand Calibras of all models, but particularly the 2L 16V model. The buyers guide is provided with the express permission of http://www.TopBuzz.co.uk.

Contents

[edit] Calibra Exterior

All the panels on the car should fit well and be sleek and slender...just like the car itself. Check all the body panels are the exact same colour and line up properly. Then see if all the key locks work on the car (2 doors/boot, glovebox/ignition), If they don't, ask why. Check for window etchings; they should match the registration number of the car. If they are not visible on some of the windows or they are different, it could have been a damaged or stolen/recovered car.

[edit] ABS, Wheels and Tyres

Wheel sensors for the ABS can go faulty. The ABS light and the worn brake pad light will tell you something's wrong, unless its been disconnected. This is quite a common trick to disconnect the sensors, hence the warning light doesn't come on - don't fall for this. If they are faulty, a new sensor will cost around £100 for a new one depending on model and year of the car. All tyres should have equal tread wear, especially on 4x4 models. If it's not on a 4x4 then it could have gearbox damage. See GEARBOX section for what to expect.

[edit] Engine

The 16v heads can suffer from cracked or porous heads, which eventually leak oil and they fail at any mileage. To tell if this has happened, check for oil in the water; the tank coolant will look like curry. Otherwise its difficult to spot, not even a pressure test will show it up.

Another trick to hide this is to put in fresh new coolant and antifreeze. Some heads known as Coscast don't suffer from this. A recon head would cost about £400. Whilst you're at the engine, check the condition of the twin cams. This can easily by done by taking off the oil cap and run your finger/nail along the lobes on the cam. Regular oil changes should show no wear. Unfortunatly this method will only tell the condition of one cam, as the other cam can not be reached from the oil cap opening. The only real solution is to remove the engine top cover.

[edit] Calibra Turbos

Turbos need to be looked after. Check for blue smoke on idle which is a sign of worn oil seals (in fact, look for this on non-turbos as well). Turbo units wear out if too much boost is used; the constant cooling off and warming up periods are vital to allow oil to circulate.

[edit] Steering

Steering racks sometimes leak (because they're PAS units) - check the reservoir. On 4x4 cars, the transfer box shares the fluid with the steering, so don't let these leak!

[edit] Suspension Arms

PLEASE READ THIS: Not a lot of people know this, but a small batch of front lower wishbone arms were incorrectly welded by Vauxhall. It is known for some of them to break, and causes the suspension to collapse (hence crash your car). Get it checked by a GM dealer.

[edit] Brakes and Brake System

Discs can warp. This is evident through the pedal when light pressure is applied. New pads and discs are quite cheap, particular for the non-turbo cars.

[edit] Gear Box and Clutch

Five speed gear boxes don't cause much hassle if treated correctly. But 4x4 can be trouble; all tyres must have equal tread or the diffs will wind up and blow the coupling and transfer box....with very little warning. A recon plus fitting is about £3500!!!! (cheaper ones are available if you shop around). Also make sure that the clutch in 4x4 models are in good condition, because unlike the F20/F16/F13 from Nova's, Astra's etc, you cannot replace the clutch with the gearbox left in. Check warning lights when starting up the car.

People can disguise an 8v as 16v with bodykits etc, but its easy to tell if its a fake if there's only one exhaust tube, if so its an 8v (unless its an aftermarket 2 tube exhust). Clutch pedals squeak when pressed down, don't worry all Vauxhalls do this (both my Nova SR, GTE and Calibra do it). You replace the bushes, but the sound will come back after time.

[edit] Interior

As usual in the interior, side bolsters on seats wear, and so do the steering wheel and pedals etc. Leather trim looks nice and lasts longer, worth about an extra £400 on the price tag. Check that all switches work and no bulbs are blown. Most of the interior is identical to the Vauxhall Cavalier. So if you can't get a bit of trim off another Calibra, look for a Cavalier instead.

The hazard switch on the dash are prone to sticking, as a plastic peg breaks off the back. Easy to replace, but they cost £25 from Vauxhall - look else where for cheaper parts. Check the chassis number is present under the carpet by the driver's seat (right-hand side).

There should be a lttle carpet flap to lift up. If its not there, then either the shell has been changed (possible, but not likly) or it could be a ringer/cut'n'shut. While at the wheel, check all the electrics work like, electric windows, mirrors, sunroof, windscreen wipers, fans, lights, demisters, etc.

[edit] Arches

Check for rust around the sills and arches (common places on Nova's too). Bonnet, front bumpers and rear wings for stone chips. New full headlamps are costly, but fortunately the lenses can be brought separately. Look for uneven gaps and ripples.

[edit] One Last Thing...

Phhewww, finished. If I was you I get a early 2L 16v.......turbo if you can afford it. I personally wouldn't go for a 4x4 because of the heavier gearbox plus costs if its goes wrong. Leather trims nice, but I can't stand it in the summer (too hot) and in the winter (too cold). Don't get fobbed off with 8v being disguised as 16v motors.

Don't get too worried about high mileage, mines a K reg (1993) and its done 104K miles, it should only have done 60K, and its still going strong. By all means look for a full service history if you can.

If you can't be bothered to look for all the items listed above, you must check for:-

  • Knackered 16v cyclinder heads.
  • Suspicious ID/VIN plates.
  • Signs of poorly repaired work.
  • 4x4 gearboxes with bad condition transferboxes.
  • And the lower front wishbone arms.